The Art of Handmade Pasta
Making pasta by hand is a cherished tradition in Italian cuisine, especially in Bologna. Chef Evan Funke, known for his restaurants in Los Angeles and Las Vegas, learned this craft from local masters. He emphasizes the importance of using simple ingredients—flour and eggs—and dedicating time to the process.
Funke’s approach involves rolling out the dough by hand, which preserves the delicate bubble structure in the pasta, resulting in better texture and flavor. He likens this process to an art form that connects him to the roots of Italian culinary tradition.
Mastering the Dough
The key to perfect pasta dough is balancing elasticity and extensibility. Funke explains that the dough should not be too wet or too dry. This balance is achieved through practice and intuition. He prefers a hydration ratio of 57% egg to flour, though adjustments might be necessary depending on the environment. For example, higher altitudes may require different ratios. Funke also highlights that making pasta requires patience, allowing the dough to rest and using the right tools. He suggests using Italian Tipo 00 flour for its fine texture, which helps achieve a smooth dough. Additionally, he advises that practice and persistence are crucial to mastering the craft.
The Beauty of Sfoglia al Mattarello
Funke’s devotion to traditional pasta-making led him to install open-view pasta labs in his restaurants, where diners can watch the process. He believes that this hands-on method brings out the best in pasta, showcasing shapes like tagliatelle, maltagliati, pappardelle, and tajarin. Each shape offers a unique experience, with tagliatelle being particularly iconic in Bologna.
Funke’s favorite pasta is always the next one he learns, reflecting his continuous passion for this culinary art. He encourages home cooks to experiment with different shapes and sizes, appreciating the versatility and beauty of handmade pasta. Funke’s journey underscores the joy and satisfaction of creating pasta from scratch, honoring the tradition while innovating within the craft.